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Boomer
10-10-2005, 02:06 PM
With 25 plotted graphs

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-10/rhf/index.php

Curtswearing
10-10-2005, 02:09 PM
That was the best article on waterchanges that I've ever read.

reedman
10-10-2005, 02:11 PM
I hope people read this and understand what this article says. The one point I think many will miss is that you still need to remove detritus from the system. Most people do this via skimming and water changes. If you stop water changes then your skimmer better be able to keep up.

Great read though and valuable information for those that beleive they can replenish everything through water changes.

dnjan
10-10-2005, 02:34 PM
Seems like the continuous changes could be made a bit more efficient if the added water were a couple of degrees cooler, and the removed water was from the tank surface.

If the continuous water change pumps were set up to come on when the tank exceded a certain temperature (say, the temperature increase typically experienced soon after the MH's kick on), such a system could also help with cooling ...

Scooterman
10-10-2005, 03:47 PM
I guess I need to read this also, so here goes!

Nautilus
10-11-2005, 06:39 AM
I knew we had Boomer around for a reason!
RHF will always be my #1 hero.
Thanks
Boomer

My2heartboys
10-11-2005, 02:22 PM
Seems like the continuous changes could be made a bit more efficient if the added water were a couple of degrees cooler, and the removed water was from the tank surface.

If the continuous water change pumps were set up to come on when the tank exceded a certain temperature (say, the temperature increase typically experienced soon after the MH's kick on), such a system could also help with cooling ...
Haven't read the article yet, but to me it would make more sense to take the water from near the sandbed (or substrate). This would also get the detrious from off of the substrate as well. Not sure, though, because I am a total newbie.

Anne

dnjan
10-11-2005, 02:46 PM
Supposedly, the detritus is kept in suspension with adequate water movement, and ends up going over the overflow (where some of it would be removed as part of the continuous water change process).

For norrmal (all-at-once) water changes - I agree that siphoning detritus accumulations on rocks and deadspots on the bottom is good. My temperature suggestion was specifically aimed at the continuous type of water change that Randy mentioned in his article.

My2heartboys
10-12-2005, 03:24 PM
Supposedly, the detritus is kept in suspension with adequate water movement, and ends up going over the overflow (where some of it would be removed as part of the continuous water change process).

For norrmal (all-at-once) water changes - I agree that siphoning detritus accumulations on rocks and deadspots on the bottom is good. My temperature suggestion was specifically aimed at the continuous type of water change that Randy mentioned in his article.
Sorry, did not mean to offend. I was thinking of the heavier things like fish poop, shrimp pellets, etc that don't always stay in suspension (for those of us who do not have an overflow (or a clue as to what one is in this hobby--other than yikes--the carpet is wet!). Yeah, technically there is not supposed to be any extra food on the sandbed--but it always seems to happen.

While on the subject of water changes--this seems to be a point on which dh and I disagree. Regular water changes that include 30, 40, 50% or more on a weekly basis. Since I don't have a 'fuge I am of the opinion that weekly water changes of 11 gallons or slightly more for my 47 gallon tank is a good thing. He strongly disagrees and says that it is too much of a shock to the critters in the tank. Yes, I still supplement--but tend to go on the light side of what is recommended (instead of a capful (5mls) maybe half a capful). I might also add that while I try to get it done on a weekly basis--it is sometimes a little longer.

Anne