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Blastomussa Help

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Tusk

Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2003
Messages
5
I have had several colonies of Blastomussa merieti and wellsi for many years now. Prior to the last couple of months they were doing great. Blastomussa merieti continues to thrive. However, the wellsi are starting to do poorly. Originally, all of the polyps were connected by connective tissue. Slowly, this tissue has begun to erode away. Some of the polyps are detaching from there skeleton.

The parameters of the tank have not changed during this period of time. The parameters are as follows: PH-7.9-8.0, Alk-7mg/l, nitrate 20ppm. The tank is a 35 gallon hex. The lighting is comprised of 1-250 10,000 and two power compacts. This lighting regime has been there from day one.

Filtration of this tank is comprised of Tunze skimmer, Ecosystem mud filter, and the use of Polyfilters and Chemi Pure. Some of the other occupants of the tank are as follows: Two open brains, Star Polyps, Lg leather, candy corals all doing well. The tank does have a 3" DSB comprised of sand from Pensacola Beach.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I don't wont to lose these corals.
 

Anthony Calfo

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 19, 2004
Messages
1,183
Location
Pennsylvania
do consider light shock too... wellsi are notoriously sensitive (moreso than the highly adaptable merlettii)... and the polyp ejection doesnt do anything to take away from this theory/possibility.

Also a very good point about bulbs... if they are much over 10 months and dirty (or lens/canopy is, etc)... then this is a serious reduction in useful light.

Anth-
 

Tusk

Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2003
Messages
5
Thank you everyone for your suggestions. When I first noticed the reduction in tissue I immediately replaced the XM bulb, this was after a year. The new bulb has been on the tank for a couple of weeks. The Wellsi have always been located near the top of the tank. The polyps have always expanded nicely, its just the connective tissue is receding and the polyp eventually losses it ability to stay attached.

The replacement mineral mud has just arrived so I will be replacing half the volume very soon.The tank does have copious amounts of Mysid shrimp along with pods and a few bristle worms unfortunately.

Thanks,
Tusk
 

Anthony Calfo

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Joined
Feb 19, 2004
Messages
1,183
Location
Pennsylvania
a wellsi at the top of a tank under any MH (especially newly changed and without gradual acclimation) sounds like a surefire way to lightshock the critter IMO. Terrifies me frankly :p

These are very deep water corals by nature that are only forgiving/adaptable if acclimated slowly.
 

Tusk

Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2003
Messages
5
Anthony,

They were displaying these changes before the light change. Was this due to insufficent light intensity. The Halide is in a pendent some 15" above the coral. One of the three colonies is near the bottom. Would you suggest shortening the light duration or moving the corals further down?

Is there any specific water quality parameter or predator I should be specifically checking for?

Thanks,
Anthony

Tusk
 

Anthony Calfo

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 19, 2004
Messages
1,183
Location
Pennsylvania
agreed... I'd move them to the bottom of the tank now that the fresh lights and conservative MH placement (15") is a more assured/appropriate variable out of the equation. With some time and enough nutrients (fine meaty foods and/or enough DOCs) these corals can easily recover. It may be a bit slow at first (3-4 months), but no worries - they are tough :)

As to specific params... none specific. They truly are hardy and will fare well simply with good (average) reef quality water: 8.3-8.6 pH, 350+ppm Ca, 8+ dKH ALK, SG 1.024-ish, etc Anything close to those number is likely fine. Do resist the obsessive and oft-recommended sps-crazy high end ranges of params (450+Ca, 12+dKH)unless you can deliver them very consistently. Stability is far more important than unrealistic high end range (spikes).

kindly,

Anthony :)
 
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