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MarineDreamer

Est. April 2nd, 2005
Joined
Mar 2, 2004
Messages
492
Location
Granite Falls, Wa
O.K, here’s the ‘sitrep’ (Situation Report.) I’ve got the 110 gallon (60Lx25Hx18D) acrylic tank that I need to put a CLS on. I’m looking to do something like Nikki’s CLS with an Ampmaster 3000 and a motorized ball valve.

I know that the output is 1.5” from the Ampmaster. I’ve gone out and purchased 1.5” plumbing parts and accessories. My first question is this then: do I install 1.5 bulkheads and then reduce the line to ¾ for the loc-line, or do I have to reduce before the bulkhead and install ¾ bulkheads? What I would like to see is loc-line have something that would allow me to install directly to the 1.5” bulkhead. Any links showing parts/pictures of installed units would be great. I’m not a great visualizer, I must see, feel, and hold before I ‘get’ something.

My second question is a little more in depth. When Mike was designing Nikki’s CLS, he stated:

Why 10 outputs?? hmm the concept of a motorized ball valve is that it throws the water from one side of it to the other (only one side is open at a time). On the pump nikki has it is 1 1/2 inch plumbing, with the use of locline on the inside of the tank you have to reduce the inputs down to 3/4. So if you do say as Rocky is suggesting and reduce it to say 4 outputs (2 a side ?) you have just effectively reduced your output of the pump from 3000gph to around 1100. seems like kind of a waste to me, but I guess it would be simpler?? the formula for doing this with out killing your pump is to double it so....5 times 3/4 inch returns, since it is swaping from side to side 5 on each side. this way no loss do to restriction on the output and less suction on the input.
So, I’m not trying to be offensive here, how did Mike come up with that math? And then I noticed that he ended up ‘only’ putting in eight bulkheads. I’ve got room for ten, I like the flexibility that it would afford me, and I can’t find a reason not to do install ten outputs. Anyone have any ideas, suggestions, and/or readings that would help me out here?

Trevor :cool:

(P.S. I would put up a picture of my plans/ideas, but I just learned where the power switch was yesterday.)
 

Stang69

OFR!
Joined
Jul 1, 2003
Messages
268
Location
Washington
The way mine worked is the 1.5 inch 90's threaded right on to the 1 inch BH's. The inside the tank ya just reduse to 3/4th and screw in the loc line


HTH


Jeff


Mojo's site will give ya pics and stuff to see how to put on together
 

big t

tankless
Joined
Oct 21, 2003
Messages
1,914
Location
Denver
What I did was use a schedule 80 3/4" bulkhead on the tank, and then I ran 1.5" plumbing. To get the 1.5" to attatch to the 3/4" bulkhead all you have to do is buy a 1.5" to 1.25" bushing that is threaded on the inside and it will screw right on to the outside of the 3/4" bulkhead. Here is a pic of my plumbing that is almost done


and here is a link to the thread http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2136
 

Scooterman

Administrator
Joined
Oct 30, 2003
Messages
10,944
Location
Louisiana
Extra BH's can come in handy, make if you plan of capping some off, plan a way to use them with a full tank, unless you plan to empty it. I like using bigger pipe and reducing where needed, you can do that either way, 1" or 1 1/2" BH's. The idea is building a Header that isn't restrictive or as little restriction as possible, then you tap off into individual outlets.
 

big t

tankless
Joined
Oct 21, 2003
Messages
1,914
Location
Denver
here is the plumbing attached, I think that I am going to add another ball valve to the part going up to the 4 at the top as to be able to fine tune the flow either way
 

mojoreef

Reef Keeper
Joined
Jul 5, 2003
Messages
7,530
Location
Sumner
So, I’m not trying to be offensive here, how did Mike come up with that math?
Trev it has to do with the friction loss of a smaller diameter pipelines, and also to do with the back pressure it would put on the pump itself. If you take a ampmaster 3000 and reduce the pipe size from 1 1/2 to 1 inch you loos 40% of your water flow. Do a search on friction loss, it should give your a few different types of formulas you can use. the general rule of thumb is when forced to reduce times by two to three times. In the case of Nikkis tank thier was not alot of room and I felt going three times would mean six outputs per side, thier wasnt enough room. SOoooo I went with what would accomplish the task with out loosing to much to friction loss. which turned out to be 4. from thier we loclined ourselves to be able to cover most of the tank with flow.
In your case if you wanted 5 outputs per sides thiers nothig wrong with doing that and you wont suffer any losses in flow. On my tank I run 6 per side. So if you can do it ...go for it.


Mike
 

NaH2O

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 25, 2004
Messages
8,568
I just wanted to add that I have great flow - pretty much covers the whole tank. Of course, once the rock is added things will change, but I'm extremely happy with the way the design turned out. Good Luck - I can't wait to see it!

Oh, Trevor - if you're looking for help wiring your MBV to a timer....here ya go (in case you haven't seen this yet):

MBV to Remote Timer Wiring Diagram
 

MarineDreamer

Est. April 2nd, 2005
Joined
Mar 2, 2004
Messages
492
Location
Granite Falls, Wa
Great! This is exactly what I was looking for guys. Thanks again for the quick posts and responses!

Mike, thanks for stepping in again, and thanks for the visuals.

Nikki thanks for the link to the wiring. Some of us had actually talked about how to wire that #@&$ timer up while we were on the tank tour.

Trevor :cool:
 

NaH2O

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 25, 2004
Messages
8,568
No problem, Trevor. Let me know if you need help with the diagram. My other half drew that up, so he can help ya with questions. I thought they looked pretty easy to follow, but then again, I wasn't the one connecting the wires :D
 
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