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diy sump

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big t

tankless
Joined
Oct 21, 2003
Messages
1,914
Location
Denver
Well once the photo gallery comes online I will post some pictures in here of my sump that show up in the thread. For now I am linking them from www.thereeftank.com
I built this sump from some scrap 1/2" acrylic that I aquired a few months ago. This was my very first endever into building acrylic products. Now I have to say that I really like working with this stuff, but it does reqiure a bit of precision to get a nice seam. On this first project I didn't manage to get any seams to come out very nice, so I added a square stock to each corner to beef it up a little bit. Basically the sump is about 30"x15"x17" I used a white piece of 1/4" material for the bottom and 1 baffle :) This was a project that cost me a total of about $15 for glue and a flush trim router bit(all acrylic was free, it came from a large tank that was in really bad shape) So anyway I used a standard ripping blade on a tablesaw, which made a pretty rough cut w/ lots of chips. I then squared it all up with a flush trim router bit and used a straight edge as a guide set back from the desired edge 2 5/8" This method works pretty good but is very tedious. I now do all my cutting at a friends place who has a full size table saw and a 80 tooth freud blade that makes nice clean cuts in the acrylic. I used the 'pin' method of gluing which involves raising the panel you want to glue down off the mating surface a very small amount (8# test monofiliment works well). You have to use shims under each pin to keep the gap perfectly even, if not you will get a lot of bubbles. Anyway once perfectly spaced you apply weldon 4 with the special applicator bottle into the gap. After about 45 seconds or so you start at the end opposite where you finished applying and pull the pins out. Once the last pin is pulled the panel should settle down and squeeze a thick clear fluid out just a tiny bit. As it cures it will suck it back in. If the edge was not totally perfect it will suck in a bunch of bubbles and make a ugly joint. So anyway I will post a few pictures of that sump both watertesting it and then installed.

If you have any questions please ask.


and finally the link here is to a picture of the sump that I just took
 

G~

Super Gobie
Joined
Jul 25, 2003
Messages
133
thanks for the great discription on the pin method. i have been trying to find one for a while. i keep meaning to try it, but all of the other instructions were confusing.

Great job.

G~
 

iaplarry

Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2003
Messages
13
Big T,
If you apply clamps to the joint all your bubble problems will go away. Just wait a few seconds for the weld on to melt the joint before you pull your pins.

Larry
 

big t

tankless
Joined
Oct 21, 2003
Messages
1,914
Location
Denver
G, thanks I am glad that makes sense.

Larry so do you think you could post a picture of what kind of clamps and where you put them? I tried some clamps on the last project that I was working on and it only seems to make matters worse. I was using some quick grip bar clamps.
 

iaplarry

Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2003
Messages
13
Big T,
This is the kind we use.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=31264

Just set your project on a flat board on top of some 2x4's. Then put your joint on the edge, then use these clamps, not a lot of torque is required just enough so you see some weld-on squeeze out of the joint. Perfect joints everytime. The clamps you describe tend to pull the piece out of square resulting in a crappy joint.

hth
Larry
 
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