Glad to find this forum : )

[Macbeth417]

I have been in the process of researching and planning for a 100gal reef I have in the works for about a month now and I just stumbled onto this forum. Being in Seattle it is great to know that I will have some local reef-heads I can talk to.

*Back to hitting the books*

Reading for this week and the next includes:
Natural Reef Aquariums- John Tullock
Aquarium Corals- Eric Borneman

Last Week Read:
Conscientious Marine Aquarist- Fenner
The bulk of Wet Web Media FAQs
and An unhealthy portion of reefcentral

 

[Alice]

And we're glad you found us! Welcome to the PSAS

Sounds like you're "getting your eds" but don't forget to check out our reference sections when you're reading-we have some great stuff.

The first two books I read about the hobby were The Reef Aquarium 1 & 2 by Delbeek and Sprung and I was burning the midnight oil-made my head spin sometimes, LOL.

Hope to see you at one of the PSAS meetings as well on the board.

Alice

 

[mojoreef]

Welcome to the board, I am glad u found us to. The books yu are reading are good, but like Alice said the library section is loaded with new information to.


Mike

 

[Macbeth417]

Thanks for the tip, I'll check it out. Though I think my brain is almost full for this week : þ


Erik

 

[Doug1]

Hey Eric, WELCOME
Reading is good, the best advice I can give you now is to see as many reefs as you can, theres lots of biotopes and tank setups that are used. Seeing them and picking the owners brains is always a good thing. Most people will be honest about the shortcomings in the setup they have, and tell yaou what they wish they did differently. A 100g reef is going to rrepresent a sizable investment in time and money so the better you have it planned out, the less you will spend changing stuff after the fact. Good Luck and Enjoy

 

[SlowBoat]

Welcome Erik

I would definately agree with Doug. Being able to visit others tanks, see pictures of them online and the way each tank was setup was so valuable when I began putting together my 180. Prior to that I had a 120 and it was a PITA to maintain and work with, not to mention it basically only sustained life, not growing life.

If your interested in a visit don't hesitate to ask.

 

[Macbeth417]

Thanks for all the replies I may have to take you up on looking at that 180gal. As for planning I am very used to that. I do tons of research, mostly via reef forums and contacts and a lot from books as well. I have been planning and weighing different options for quite some time. My guess is that the tank will not be up and cycling for at least another 3-4 weeks.

I have most of it planned out as for as filtration, water circulation and plumbing basics. But I still need to make a final decision on lighting. I have just started to research my stock list this last week or two.

So far I have picked the tank (100gal standard acrylic) with middle overflow (stealth/trapezoid) (two 1" holes drilled in bottom). Sump is a 20 long housing a small refugium a EuroReef es6-2+ (skim chamber will also house some LR) and a set of baffles before the return pump which right now looks like it is going to be either a Quite One 4000 or a Gen-X PCX40.
This is split via a SCWD into two returns.

I have worked out auto top off as well as freshwater and saltwater mixing and plumbing (all plumbed and valve operated except for the top-off which I would like to have automated via float switch)

There is also a closed loop pushed by a Quite One 6000 (1506 gph). This is also on a SCWD.

Im looking at about 120 lbs of LR in that tank and 10Lbs in sump.

Substrate and lighting still depends on livestock.

I would love to get a set of 250Watt Metal halides and two VHO acentics
but I?m not sure I can spring for all that. I might just stick with Soft corals and go with all VHO (50/50 white/acentic URIs).

I am currently looking at Ca. Reactors and Kalk Stirrers and weighing the cost and benefits. DYI or GEO most likley. Though I have seen some great deal on Korallin 1502's on ebay lately

After much research and asking some locals, I do not plan on a RO/DI, but that may change.

Sure you all will hear plenty as this project takes shape,
Erik

 

[mojoreef]

Sounds great Eric, you've put alot of time into its planning. I would definately plan on a ro/di or something very simular. On the VHO's another option I would suggest the new T-5 lights they are alot brighter then the vho setups and cheaper to.

Take care

mike

 

[skylsdale]

A MUST have book: Reef Fishes Vol. 1 by Scott Michael. Research (especially before buying any livestock for your tank, now or in the future) is the single most important aid you have. This is a great book for the library, but for someone just starting out you may want to get his "field guide" fish book first--it has a larger collection of species that can give you some great info before you start stocking.

 

[Macbeth417]

I have been keeping fish for about six years, but this will be my first Reef. So I would not be interested in a beginers book, but I will check out Reef Fishes Vol. 1

 

[Macbeth417]

Mojoreef:

Aren't T-5's simply HO output florecents?
ie you would have:

T5 Full spec 25watts @ 6000K
T5 Acentic 24watts @ 450nm

VHO Full spec 110 Watts @ 10000K
VHO ACENTIC 110 Watts @ 420nm peak (420 being a deeper blue)


Or you mean watt per watt IE buying 4 of of each tube in the T5 set at 100 or 96 watts and total of 6000K X4 bulbs output and more Acentic total?

Please point me in the direction of a page with information if I am mistaken about this : )

 

[Macbeth417]

Did some more reading on the T5's . Don't look like a bad option at all.
Do you think that a 6X 54watt would be a good choice ?

 

[Doug1]

Sounds like you are putting a lot of thought into this setup. What is the estimated flow rate through your drains and sump? Are you considering using Durso or Stockman mods on the drains to quite them? 20 long is not that big a sump after you get a good sized skimmer in it, and if the water goes screaming thru it micro bubbles can be a SOB to deal with. IME a flowthru rate that is close to or slightly less than the actuall volume the skimmer pump can push thru the skimmer means more of the sump water will be skimmed. Slower flows also create less noise and salt residue in the cabinet.
I am partial to VHO on e-ballasts, I know T-5 is the new darling, but I don't see a big purchase price advantage to T-5, esp with several inexpensive Icecap clones available. The ability to run any standard or VHO bulb is a nice feature, esp if you lose a light on sunday nite.
So far my trolling for info has yielded no output comparisons between T-5 and VHO. I would be real curious to see lumens and PAR compared. I think VHO is tried and true if you understand it's limitations, and hard to beat in the long run.

 

[Macbeth417]

I have aleardy bookmarked the Durso Mod DIY site and will be putting some into my overflow. Anything to lessen the sound. As far as the micro bubble Im thinking between some microfilter bags and the baffles I will be able to handle most of them.

As for skimmer flow I am useing the Sedra KSP5000A on a ES-6-2+ the 62+ is reated at 125gal and Sedra pushed about 500GPH at zero head.

I figure I want the turn over in through the sump to be as close to 500gph as possible. That is why I have the sedra for the es6-2 and am using 1017gph Quite one for the return. I figure spliting it between the SCWD will reduce total GPH. The rest of the water movement will be handled by the closed loop @ about 1500 GPH split on SCWD.
So total GPH movement is about 2000 GPH and sump through put is about 500GPH with the skimmer working close if not up to par with the total sump flow.

If you really think that will be too small I have a 29gal I could use. I am also looking into and API fabricated one. But cost wise I may be better of with old tank and some glass DIY time.

Thanks for all the info and help guys. These questions really make me think over stuff and figure out if I have hammered everything out.

Erik

 

[Macbeth417]

one last thing on the over flows
generally 3/4 flows 300 gph 1" flows 600 gph through the over flow bulkheads. So I figure with two one inch bulkhead I will be able to move 1200gph max, but that is not what I am doing. I am moving 500gph. So this will dramaticly reduce the speed/pressure at which the syphoned water is traveling thus reducing the splash and micro bubbles you spoke of.

 

[Alice]

Just a note on Scott Michael's Pocket Guide to Marine Fish; I don't consider it a beginner's book at all. It provides valuable info for any time someone is considering a fish purchase. It gives enough detailed info about the particular fish you may be considering that you're able to make a decision on whether or not it belongs in your tank...especially if it's a reef tank.

My copy is getting pretty tattered

Just my $.02

Alice

 

[mojoreef]

Its the only fish book I got.....lol.....


Mike

 

[Doug1]

Sounds like you got a good plan going re: sump flow vs closed loops for the main water movment
The Sedra 500, are these still renamed Sen pumps? good pressure output for the money but if the 500 is as oversized as the 700/900 they are huge.
My Sen 900 is easily double the size of a Mag 18. Another thing to factor in is that the resistance through a venturi, Becket, ect plus the twists and turns in a skimmer will reduce the thruput rate substantially so 500 gph in won't be 500gph on the output end.
As far as the 29 goes, its a 20 long only higher, so if your skimmer/pump fits in OK it would give you 6" more depth to handle drain down from the tank in a power off situation. I have a 55g sump under my 75

 

[Doug1]

Something else I forgot to mention, be sure and establish a monthly or bi monthly at least maint schedule for your submersible pumps like Sen/Sedra, mags , and assorted power heads. Over time carbonate deposits can build up in the impellor chamber and the well that the armature/shaft assembly sits in. This can reduce flow, and in extreme case can actually wear thru the epoxy coating on the armature shaft, exposing the iron core inside. Its not a pretty site. Not quite as messy as a Rio meltdown, but long term iron exposure is detrimental to a reef tank. I wish the attach image feature worked, I can show you what a Sen shaft looks like when the epoxy is breached. Its not pretty

 

[Macbeth417]

Whooo Doug I sure don't need that iron in my tank!
I always clean my impellers when I do filter check and cleaning. Usually evey 3 weeks or so.