Quantcast

lighting question

Help Support Reef Frontiers:

tcta69

Member
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
7
I am fixing on moving my occupants from my 55 gal to my 200 gal. I only Have compacts on the 55, but on the 200 I have metal halides, actinic,and daylight.

Will the change in lights bother my tank inhabitants. I have fish, inverts and anemones. The lady at the LFS told me NOT to use my metal halides unless I was doing hard corals. She said that soft corals do not need them.

I only want to get a few corals but none of them are hard.

Also is there anything I can do to make this move a litle easier for my animals. And will I need to add any new supplements when I add corals.

Thanks for the help,
Monica
 

Katchupoy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 9, 2003
Messages
2,188
Location
Kent 98031
Welcome to "Reef Frontier" Monica.... glad that you found us. Where are you from?

Is your 200 gal and established tank or a new one. How new?

How many MH do you have on the 200?

What is the kelvin and wattage of the bulb

If you can raise the light like say 12 inches high then slowly lowering down and inch every two days.

Or you can put several layer of screens on it and remove one layer at a time every two days or so...

There are a lot of options but you need to tell us more...
 

mattseattle

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 15, 2003
Messages
2,694
Location
Seattle, WA
also make sure to start off with only using your MH's a few hours at a time per day. This will slowly introduce your new inhabitants to the new lighting. Ramp up an hour a week or so till you get to the time schedule you want. When I first added Metal halides to my tank I ran them only 3 hours a day then shut them off for several hours then on maybe another hour. It took me about a month and a half to get up to my current schedule of 9 - 10 hours a day.

I find the above method the easiest. You can also use the egg crate/window covering method or the start your lights up high and slowly lower them method. Or you can use a combination of all the methods. :)
 

tcta69

Member
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
7
katchupoy,

I live in Kansas. The tank is not an established tank it is in the process of cycling. I plan on moving my inhabitants over slowly when the cycle is finished so I do not crash the tank.

As for my lighting here is what I got from reading the bubs. There are 3 metal halides- 2 of which are true 10000k, 175 watt bulbs. The third one is a true 10000k 250 watt bulb. Then there are 2 GE F55BX/AR/FS ( these are the same as what is in my 55 gal) they are power compacts. And I think theyare 55 watts each. Then there is a super sun light 55 watt bulb and a actinic blue 55 watt bulb, both are by hamilton and both are power compacts.

I also measured my tank and found that it is only a 150 gal tank. The lady we bought it from said she thought it was a 200 but wasn't sure.

Hope this helps some. As for putting the light up high and slowly moving it down that is not an option as we have 20 ft ceilings. So I will have to just put layers under it or run it in short spurts like mattseattle suggested.

Do you agree with the LFS that said not to use the metal halides. Or is she full of it.

Thanks for the response. I really appresiate the help.
Monica
 

tcta69

Member
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
7
mattseattle,

thanks for the info. I will remember to do that. I know its to early but when its time what would you suggest for my first coral?

Thank you
Monica
 

mattseattle

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 15, 2003
Messages
2,694
Location
Seattle, WA
she's full of it! i'd use the metal halides! you'll love them! just slowly acclimate your inhabitants to the new light.

as far as first corals......i'd let the tank cycle for a few months before this happens. do you want to go with hard corals or stick with soft corals? some say you should not mix and match but stick with a certain type and kind.
 

tcta69

Member
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
7
mattseattle,

From what I've seen at the various LFS I think I would prefer to do soft corals. Do you know of any that are really bright colored.

Another dumb question. I recently found out that some LFS's buy dyed anemones. Can a coral be dyed as well? Is that something else I need to be looking out for?
 
Last edited:

mattseattle

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 15, 2003
Messages
2,694
Location
Seattle, WA
Some of the finger leather's are nicely colored



The Zoanthus is also very pretty. I have some really intense green ones and some green/red ones in my tank and I love them. I don't think they are really considered soft corals though but more Polyp corals which are extremely easy to take care of.

If I were you I'd take a look at some of the sponsor sites and look at their corals. Also you can always trade some with your local reef'ers.
 

mattseattle

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 15, 2003
Messages
2,694
Location
Seattle, WA
As far as dyed anemones I would defintiely stay away from those. I'd also stay away from fish stores that sell those as it sounds like they are not buying from reputable sellers.

I'm sure corals can be dyed as well. I don't have any experience in that though. Maybe someone else can answer this question.
 

Katchupoy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 9, 2003
Messages
2,188
Location
Kent 98031
Yes, It can be dyed and you have to be careful about theses ill actions of some LFS.

If you are going with Softies.... you can also try to not use the 250 for now... and stick with the 2 175's you have on both left and right side of the tank.

You also need to make a goal of what you want. With the lighting you already have, you can actually do advance reefing in the future.

Questions?

How long have you been with this hobby?
Drilled tank? or Overflow?
How about plumbing design while it is in early stage?
How about Close loop with SCWD or Wavetimers with lots of PH's (powerheads)
Are you going to use a sump?
Skimmer?
RO/DI? or what kind of water or where do you get it?
What do you want to keep? (you already mentioned this)
Deep Sand Bed (DSB)? or Bare bottom?
Fishes?
How much LR do you want to keep?
 

mattseattle

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 15, 2003
Messages
2,694
Location
Seattle, WA
Mine is really only green when the haldies are turned off and the blue actinitics are on. Otherwise it only has a greenish tint. Here is a picture of it when I first got it. It's probably double this size now.

If it's what you want then we can work out a deal.
 

fishermann

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 13, 2003
Messages
670
Location
Searcy, Arkansas
tcta69 Your lfs is not totally wrong. If you intent to keep only softies or even lps and never any sps you do not need MH's, and for sure the 250. When you run MH's you get into tank overheating problems that you have to watch closely and they use a lot more elect. IF! you are not interested in sps and are sure of that i would sell the MH's and put together a good set of pc's they are all you need, the bulbs are alot cheaper then MH's also. Another thing you need to concider is the type of ballast you have and how old the bulbs are, if they are a yr old they well have to be replaced or you can get red cyno growing. Some softies and lps do not like mh's. If you do keep them do what matt says and start with a few hrs a day and work your way up over several weeks.
 

tcta69

Member
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
7
katchupoy,

I have been doing saltwater since December 1 of last year. The 150 gal tank has an overflow with a sump. We currently have a protein skimmer in the sump. I have about a 2 inch sand bed. And about 100 pounds of live rock. The water that I use is RO water from wal-mart.
As for the close loop with SCWD or the wavetimers with lots of powerheads I do not have either of them.Do you think I should get them?
As for the fish right now I have:
1 spotted cardinal
1 firefish goby
1 percula clown
1 henious butterfly
1 lawnmower blenny
and
1 mandarin goby

As for any others I am playing it by ear.

If there is anything that you think I shoukd have for the tank that would really help it please let me know I want to do this right.

Monica
 

Katchupoy

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 9, 2003
Messages
2,188
Location
Kent 98031
Its not important to have those wavetimers but its a nice addition.

I think you are off to a good start... hey btw, I just bought this really cheap wavetimer from ebay costs around $29.00. Look for "natural wave".

And like the previous post said, you can actaully do good softies without MH's... But since you already have one.... you can do the two 175's... you need this specially you have an anemone that you mentioned.

Only suggestion I can give you is take it slowly...
do it right - do it once.
 

fishermann

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 13, 2003
Messages
670
Location
Searcy, Arkansas
tcta69 if you have a mandarin and like most he only eats the bugs he finds in the rock, the tank needs to have well aged rock in it and don't put any wrasses in because they well scour the rock at a lot higher rate for the same food. I have a big long tenacle anem. under pc's for 3yrs now and is doing fine. The MH are fine you well just have heat issues and greater evaporation to deal with and more expense.
 
Your email address will not be publicly visible. We will only use it to contact you to confirm your post.

Latest posts

Top