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New Stand Design Help

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Illusion

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I am getting a new 224g tank and need help with the stand... It doesnt have to look perfect but does have to support the Massive weight... The tank is 72"L x 24"W x 30"T

I want the Stand as open as possible as I like "Easy Access" I am not too worried about the Skinning part as I can Surely make something that looks Decent LOL I mean how hard is It to skin a Frame LOL... Its the Frame Structure and Top that I am Most worried about... I know I will be Using 2x4s as they will be plenty IMO... AS for how to Join the Whole Frame Ect I am not really all that Familiar with... The only tools I have access to are a Skill Saw, Sander, Jig Saw, Drills, and Hammer and Nails... I dont mind OverBuilding the stand so long as It doesnt really Hinder the Accessability.. I want to be able to have Removable sides for Easy Removal of the sump ect.. Please can someone help me... I dont need to hurry on this as it will be atleast a couple months before the tank gets here but I want it done and out of the way... Then I can Work on the Canopy.. BTW the tank is Acrylic and Drilled for the overflow on the bottom..

Thanks again,
James
 

big t

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Well I will try again.

I am sure that I could make a acceptable stand with the tools you have, so I am sure that you can 2 :D. The problem with having removable sides is that you are taking a major structural member and making it non structural. If you really want to do that use a 4x4 for the corners and 2x8 for the top frame. Then knotch the 4x4's to accept the 2x8's. You should see this thread http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2096, and you should get some ideas. If you want to see a million diy threads on stands look ar RC and search for stands in the diy section, you will get tons of ideas.
 

DonW

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If you want a removable skin Tom is right you need a good frame. I would use all 4x4's mortise and tenon. Easy to do with a drill, chisel, hammer and skill saw. Very basic design and cheap.

Don
 

Illusion

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I have read quite a bit people are stating that 4x4s are not recommended do to Twisting and that Its Better to use 2x 2x4s bolted together... I was also checking out the Garf plans and It says 2x4s as well... I was initally thinking 4x4s on the 4 Corners and 2x4s for the Center Supports... But from what I have read on RC is thats not a good Idea and 2x4s will be plenty... I am just extremely Nervous due to the Weight factor... I plan to put a min of 3 Pole Jacks On the Floor Joists under my 1st floor apartment that Are supposed to be able to hold 16k-18000lbs Ea I was thinking 6 2 on ea side and 2 in the middle... The apartment is an older Apt so I think it should be fine with 3 but I havent looked yet... The wall the tank is going on should be a load Bearing wall as My neighbors place is directly on the opposite side and we have a Second Story above us... I was thinking about following the Garf Design and Placing 1" plywood directly under the tank on the Frame instead of 3/4" as they suggest... Since I was using 1" there I figure that I can do 1" all the way around as well... I would like to have 3 doors in the front with Removable doors on Ea side to be able to slide things in and out... I figure 2 center Braces in the Front and 4 in the back... I would preferrably like to have the back open as well... I was thinking of using 2x4s for the corners Shaped as an L to make a nice Strong Corner...

TIA<
James
 

DonW

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4x4 or any lumber will twist if you buy cheap wet junk. You will not get stronger than a mortise and tenon timber frame. You dont need to worry about the floor itself, just the joiste. Since its going on an interior wall you dont need to worry about rotted sil plates. Your timber should be dry and straight, you wont find that combination at the local home centers unless you use treated.

Don
 

Illusion

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Well I called around and I think I am going to use ??Kennel?? dried 2x6s, 2x4's and 3/4 CDX plywood... How does this sound?? Should it be stable and be able to hold the weight? The local Builder at Home Depot says that this will work the best and is the same stuff used to build houses... He stated as long as the Stand was built correctly there should be no reason why it would not hold the weight of 5000lbs..

Thanks again,
James
 

DonW

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Its kiln dried and by the time it makes it to home depot its no longer dry. If you still want the end removable then no 2x are not enough unless they are set in mortises. The skin of framed cabinet is what keeps it from twisting apart. Since your skin is loose you need to build up the frame. It all depend on the frame design, the direct weight is no big deal its the shifting side to side.

Don
 

Illusion

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hmm... Cause over on RC there are people talking about using 2x4s in an L shape making it 2x 2x4s on Each corner making it a rather nice corner... Looking at some stands that are out there It seems as though My desing should hold up without an Issue... I found one stand that had the Doors on the Sides and a Pretty open back supporting the Same size tank...

This is the one stand that I found for the same size tank that I really like the Design of 3 doors in front and 1 door on Ea Side..

James
 
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DonW

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I would'nt put my 80 on that let alone 200+ those 2x's are just sittin in the floor. The back panel is probably bolted to the wall. It also looks like its on a slab. Hang on I'll draw you a quick pic.

Don
 

DonW

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Hope this helps. I cant really draw on the computer. I do custom cabinets and furniture on the side. I would be happy to do this one for you for the cost of materials. I really dont have time to do the skin right now but could later in the winter.
I dont mean to knock you WW skills I just dont want to see your tank fall.

Don
 

DonW

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It sounds like your in favor of a real petite but strong frame? You may want to check out Nikkis thread. If you want to go metal tube and skin it I'll be happy to weld it up for you.

Don
 

Illusion

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I would love the Steel Frame Idea... Is that usually cheaper than wood??? I gotta run to take the wife to work... I will brb

James
 

Illusion

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Ok so a few Questions about a Steel Frame... Would I be able to just Screw on some plywood and skin it that way without hurting the integrity of the Steel Stand?? Also the only thing that I would really have to do to the Stand after you created the metal stand would be to Lay 3/4" cdx over the top screw it down and it would be tank Ready correct? And also approx how much would it cost to be 72Lx24Wx30H

thanks again,
James
 

DonW

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I guess you could set it on ply and run it bare.
I dont know about the cost. Try metal supermarket in lakewood so I can pick it up, you pay them over the phone. Get a price on 1.5 or 2" 1/8 wall square tube. I would guess 10 6' chunks dont worry about the cuts as long as their isnt alot of waste, I have a chop saw. You drill and tap it, you dont want to bolt all the way through.

Don
 
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Illusion

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Ok I will give them a call in the Morning and Get back with you... I was thinking that I could just shell it as a normal Stand would be with 1/2" cdx and 3/4" cdx on the top where the tank would sit.. That way for the Skin I can get some real nice finishing wood and glue/tack it on at a later time... And just buy some Store Bought Doors

Ps sending pm

James
 
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Illusion

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WOW steel is really expensive LOL... It came out to 281.40 for everything... And that was the cheapest... LOL Was thinking much less than that... If I was going to do something Sturdy for Wood I priced out a bunch of 6x 2x4 and 6x 2x6 plus 4 sheets of 3/4 cdx ply and it came out to like 140.00 LOL... What do you think I dould need for wood If I was going to do something Sturdy that just funtions??? I dont have a whole lot of $$$.. I wont get the tank until sometime in Nov-Dec so Time isnt really a concern.. If I can get the Frame built then slowly work on the outside shell..
 

Angelscrx

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Wow that is a lot of money for a steel frame but I guess it would be worth it if it never fell over! Nikki has a really nice set up for her tank. You might want to check it out.
 

Illusion

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yeah that was for just about the Same Setup for the Steel as nikki's... I will just go wood right now.. Should hold up for a while until I get ready to move... I am in an Apt right now so I will be moving for sure.. I will just figure the price for the Steel in when I move and make do for now... LOL..

James
 

Illusion

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Don,

Can you take a look over this Drawing and Kinda give me an Idea as to what Kind of Wood to Use at the Corners and for the Supports... Its kind of a pretty Crappy Drawing in Visio... It was my first time Using it LOL... I would preferrably like to make this the Strongest that I can so If you want to Add to my Idea Please do... I have No Idea what wood and Where to Use It...

I was thining 2x4's for the Vertical Beams and 2x6's for the Horizontal beams With a 3/4" CDX wrapping the Entire frame... With Cutout Doors on both Sides and 3 cutout Doors on the Front... The Bottom of the Stand wouls be dont Identical to the Top of the Stand and Placing 3/4" Cdx as the "Flooring" in the stand Does this make Sense?? Does this sound like it will hold a 224g Acrylic tank? Anyone else my Chime in as well..

thanks again,
James
 
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