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Workaholic

Millipora Addict
Joined
Sep 3, 2007
Messages
820
Location
Federal Way, WA
Hello again!

Well, as i've posted before the club will be getting a 6' 125gal reef started up soon. Starting with the DIY glass tank drilling class taking place this saturday at my home in federal way. So far i've managed to collect the following equipment. I'll detail the cost so everyone can see just how much $$ is really going into this.

Used 6' 125gal tank Free! (donated by Workaholic)
New 6' basic 2x6 construction stand FREE! (donated by Workaholic)
Used 4' acrylic sump FREE (donated by Marlin AKA Marlinmero)
Use BRS dual chamber media reactor FREE! (donated by Jim AKA Tecnomage)
Used Rio 2500 return pump $10 (purchased from workaholic)
Icecap 660 ballast with wiring harness $65 shipped (purchased off of reefcentral classifieds)
Bucket of Instant ocean sea salt $31! (purchased at blue sierra's recent sale)
New Vertex IN-180 skimmer $150 (purchasd at Barriers anniversary sale)
2 glass hole saws and 3 bulkheads for herbie style drains and return $55.55 (purchased from bulk reef supply)

So far here's a list of livestock that has been collected for the tank

2 flame scallops
1 5" and 1 2.5" derasa clams
4 different mushroom rocks
10+ zoa frags
6"+ aussie gold wall hammer
6"+ pink eye chalice
4" red cynaria
pink pocliapora
10 mexican turbo snails
10 astrea snails
yellow sand polyp rock
2 GSP frags
purple tip valida
large spaghetti leather
and more.....

So what do you all think so far?
 

Workaholic

Millipora Addict
Joined
Sep 3, 2007
Messages
820
Location
Federal Way, WA
Also, here's a short list of things that the club still needs to make this tank really get going

(4) 4' t5 reflectors
4 sets of t5 endcaps
a canopy for a 6' 125gal (72"x18" IIRC) if its got a matching stand even better! (i haven't had a chance to build one yet but its on the list to get started this weekend as I already have the material)
Powerheads! currently we dont have flow for this tank and could really use it!

I'm not saying you have to donate anything! all though its much appreciated :) the club is willing to purchase some used equipment if you have it for sale :)
 

Workaholic

Millipora Addict
Joined
Sep 3, 2007
Messages
820
Location
Federal Way, WA
Well,
here's the status of the of the club reef. Due to a variety of factors, mainly cost to the club. I've decided to scale back the size of the clubs reef to pretty much what is needed. The 125 will be sold and the proceeds given to the club. With petco currently offering their $1/gallon sale I'll be picking up a 40B for the clubs tank and the Vertex skimmer to be auctioned off at a later meeting. Here's a few thing that the tank could use.

Hang on skimmer
3' lighting (4 bulb t5 would be nice)
powerheads (all though I should be able to conjur something up)

Thanks,
Tom
 

halmus

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2012
Messages
677
Location
Golden, Co
So, for the time being, I'll be taking up the club reef project. I picked up the equipment from Tom, well most of it. I still forgot a few things at his place. The first step is building the stand and canopy. The tank is going in my semi-heated garage. I'll be building the stand and canopy to match my garage cabinets. It will be paint-grade cabinetry and will blend in well with what I've got, and at the same time be attractive enough that it can be repainted and brought into someone's house still as an attractive piece of furniture with minimal modifications. Pictures to follow.
 

halmus

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2012
Messages
677
Location
Golden, Co
So, the first thing you carpenters will notice is that this stand is overbuilt a stupid amount. Here's my thinking, I will be putting a 36" wide tank (40B) on a 48" wide stand. The stand is long for extra sump capacity. That weight not being centered over the supports will add extra pressure and possibly lead to bowing. Check out the multiple layers of 2x4's laminated together.

 

halmus

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Joined
Apr 6, 2012
Messages
677
Location
Golden, Co
That's the base cabinet laying on its back.



The 2x4's are supported directly down by a sheet of 3/4" plywood. That makes 2 x 3/4" sheets of poplar ply on each end laminated together. There are also downward 2x4 supports in the corners. That translates the weight to the four corners where I will have rollers so the cabinet can be moved around while working in my shop/garage.



Here are the rollers.

 

halmus

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2012
Messages
677
Location
Golden, Co
There is a void I left in the framing so that I can run plumbing to the sump without having to drill through 5" of solid material.



This is the unfinished cabinet without the top

 

halmus

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2012
Messages
677
Location
Golden, Co
This is the cabinet in place without the doors.



The hood/canopy is a little unorthodox. I wanted a system that would completely enclose the tank. The canopy can be removed and disposed of for the next owner. I wanted something that would keep out the dust and debris that is inevitable in my work space. It wasn't acceptable by the boss of the house to have another tank inside. I've successfully kept tanks in the garage in the past through the winter that were contained in my cheapo lowes cabinets. The cabinets helped retain heat, and I didn't have any issue other than the limited filtration which itself leads to problems. This system will have a huge amount of water flow in-tank, and a reasonable turnover through the sump. More details to follow as the equipment comes together. Right now, the doors are still drying.
 

halmus

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2012
Messages
677
Location
Golden, Co
Here's the stand in place with the doors open



...and closed



It blends in pretty well. I'll probably be leaving the doors open on the top cabinet most of the time for air circulation. We'll see. The project will be at a stand-still for a week or two now while I focus on course work at UW. Then, it's off to the races piecing together the equipment, sump, and top-off system.
 

halmus

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2012
Messages
677
Location
Golden, Co
First I cut a hole in the back of the hood, and framed it with acrylic strips that fit tight to the used CPR overflow I'll be using.

 

halmus

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Joined
Apr 6, 2012
Messages
677
Location
Golden, Co
I slid the aquarium in place, and this is the inside view of the overflow



It sticks out the back side of the hood far enough that I'll be able to plumb off of the bulkhead once it's in place.



 

halmus

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2012
Messages
677
Location
Golden, Co
The back of the hood is only 1/4" thick. I glued in foam to help maintain heat in the winter. So, once I cut through the foam, I wanted to seal that off from the overflowing water. So, the acrylic is wrapped around the opening and seals off the top. The top of the overflow box has a removable cap to keep debris from getting into the water column.
 

halmus

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Joined
Apr 6, 2012
Messages
677
Location
Golden, Co
So, I'll start working my way through the filtration. For me, this often takes a while to tweak everything to get it the way I want it. A little extra work upfront prevents a lot of headaches down the road and allows the tank to do better on its own when life gets too busy.

Here's the sump I had. I made almost no modifications to it other than extending the far left side up with a quick acrylic box. This adds a little height so I can put an oversized 7" filter sock to filter the return water through. With it sitting higher, the water drops down further before reaching the water line. My experience in the past is that if the filter sock is sitting at the water level, gravity isn't working on your side, and the sock has to be changed more often.



The center compartment is for the skimmer. It hasn't run in a while now. Hopefully it does alright. It was on my 120 for 1 1/2 years so it should handle the 40B fine. The final compartment is the return pump. It's a mag-drive 900. That will double as return, and the feed line for the refugium.

Here is the bigger picture. The stand is 4' long, so that gives you a little perspective how big the sump will be.



The refugium will sit to the right of this. It will overflow back into the section with the return pump. Think of it as a 15gal HOB refugium for the sump.




 

halmus

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Joined
Apr 6, 2012
Messages
677
Location
Golden, Co
Here is the overview of the refugium in action. The water test.





The inside of it, with the typical egg-crate filter for the algae.



The refugium is deeper than it needs to be. If I tried to fill it entirely with algae, the stuff at the bottom would just die from lack of light. So, I'm implementing the benethic (Duplex) approach. I'll direct a little water flow down there from the return pump which is definitely larger than I need. There will be 2-3 lines running into the refugium. One down at the bottom, in the benethic zone, and one or two up in the algae layer. I'll be laying a layer of live rock on top of the egg-crate and then algae will grow above that. Plenty of ideal living conditions for all sorts of critters. The only thing this build won't have is sand.

For further study: http://www.reefvideos.com./videos/73/th ... prefugium/



That funny looking deal on the left side of the refugium hooks over the side of the main sump. Like I said, just like a huge hang-on-the-back type. The fuge will sit on a little platform to get it up above the level of the main sump.

And...a quick disclaimer. I'm not farming aptasia. The video above talks about that as a possible stage in filtration. That's not my goal.
 
Last edited:

halmus

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2012
Messages
677
Location
Golden, Co
Here come a bunch of updates. I've been keeping up with this on PSAS, but not so well here.

Things are coming together slowly. I made a bunch of DIY reef rock about a month ago. It's been curing/soaking in fresh water since then getting the water switched out every few days. I'm only putting the rock in the bottom of the refugium and maybe a little in the empty areas of the sump to add a little extra filtration.

Today, I switched out 15 gallons from my personal display during a normal water change. That water went into the sump/refugium. I wanted the established bacteria in the water column to speed up the cycling of the club tank. I'll keep doing these water changes over the next week until the sump and 40 tank are filled. Right now, there's a small heater and pump to circulate the water and start the rock curing for the frag tank.









Here's the main frag tank. I will probably put a wrass in the tank to eat parasites if they exist and a tank to eat any possible algae that might grow. That's why there's all the extra plumbing pieces under the egg-crate stand. I wanted them to have a place to hide and sleep.



This is just the back of the stand after the plumbing was run

 

halmus

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2012
Messages
677
Location
Golden, Co
I added a little more algae from my display into the club refugium. I also added a small rock from one of my display refugiums that had some sponge growth on it. Guess who crawled out later on to check out his new home?






I'm naming him Frank. That's only 1" of him. He's pretty fat from being in the deep sand bed of my display fuge. Plenty of things for him to eat there. There's no sand in the club system, and very little living critters yet. I may have to catch him and put him back where he'll eat well. With the relocated cheato, I added a little bit of frozen brine shrimp so the critters that were transplanted will have something to chew on (if they eat that sort of thing?) as it decomposes. I'm also trying to help the tank get cycling. There's no nutrients in there currently for the cheato to consume, so I'm hoping the small amount of decomposing food will help a little.
 

halmus

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2012
Messages
677
Location
Golden, Co




On the left side of the sump is the filter sock area. Notice how I got a little excessive with the plumbing glue. It's not pretty, but it holds water. The quick release threaded coupling can be undone and that end piece comes off of the plumbing with the removable lid over the filter sock. The filter sock sits down below the lid an inch. It can overflow (if it gets clogged up entirely) and the overflowing water just falls into the sump because it's enclosed in that tight acrylic box.



The skimmer section



This old skimmer was on my display for a year or so. I wasn't impressed with it then, but it started making crud within a minute of being plugged in. It's oversized for this system.



The return pump section. I'll eventually put a water level controller system of some sort on this to top off fresh water. The pump is sitting on a bed of foam and wedged in on both sides with foam pads. This dampens vibration, cuts down noise, and helps filter out micro-bubbles introduced from the falling water into this section.

 

halmus

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2012
Messages
677
Location
Golden, Co
The left side of the main tank.



The whole tank. There is a removable divider on the right end to keep moisture out of the electronics. It will act as a good support to hold the lights when I can get them mounted.



A peek behind the divider where you can see some of the leftover timers I had after installing the Apex on my display. These will control the lighting systems, and possibly a pump or two. There is one pump buried inside of the eggcrate stand that adds circulation. This might end up being controlled by a timer if fish are introduced so they have some calmer waters to sleep in at night.



This is with the divider removed.

 
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