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what should my tests be at?

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Jonathan G.

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K i just set my 75 gal tank up a week ago and am about to add live rock to cycle it out. my salinity is at 1.023, my temp is 79-80, and my pH is working its way up to 8.3. my question is where should my magnesium, phosphate, calcuim and other important tests range? should i worry about these now or wait til i finish my cycle, or when i go to put more sensitive inverts in it?
 

wrightme43

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bowling green ky
Depending on the salt you used the CA will be between 325-450 ppm Mg should be around 1100-1500 ppm Phosphate it is not cost effective to mess with YET!!! it will be a concern later. And like you said untill your finished with the cycle it really is a moot point any way. Just my opinion. Steve
 

CarlaW

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Is the live rock you are getting cured? You will still have some die off if it is, but that would help speed things up a little. If you are gonna get uncured rock, your cycle will likely last 4 weeks or more, depending on the amount of water changes that you do. I myself, would worry to much about Ca and Mg until after you're cycled. You should be watching nitrites, ammonia and nitrates during the cycle tho. Once those read 0 across the board, you should be good to go. Even then, you want to take things slow!! What kind of skimmer do you have?
 

Jonathan G.

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Toledo, OH
I am running a 150 gal pro clear aquatics wet/dry with a quiet one 3000 as my return and it has a built in skimmer. also have 2 maxi jet 900's and a penguin 350 w/out biowheels running right now. My pH is low, 7.7, and i was wondering if i could bring it up using seachem pH buffer 8.3. I tested the water out of my faucet and the pH was fine so i dont know what might of happened to make it go so low. i also use oceanic salt, the 200 gal bucket comes in handy. also does anyone here use aragamilk as a buffer?
 
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Jonathan G.

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also i here that if you dont have the phosphate right where you need them you might run into problems with algea later down the road.
 

NaH2O

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Welcome to Reef Frontiers!!!

Here is a thread on my tank's cycle: Nitrogen Cycle Explained. I hope you find it helpful. With all the organic matter breaking down, I didn't worry about my other water parameters, buffering my water or doing anything else until the cycle was completed.

Here is a good article by Randy Holmes-Farley Water Parameters.

You might want to do a search on Oceanic Salt. I have recently switched to IO from Oceanic because the skewed Calcium and Magnesium levels were difficult to deal with. All salts have pros and cons. It is a matter of which cons you want. Here are a couple of examples:

Magnesium

Changing Salt Mix

Hope all of this helps!
 

NaH2O

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Oops, I forgot to add about phosphates. Yes, it is true they will be an algae fuel. Are you using RO/DI water?
 

Jonathan G.

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Toledo, OH
no im not but i had my water tested at a local pool place and there is no iron copper or anything like that, also the water around here is pretty good quality. my lfs used to use ro/di water when he lived in chicago but hasn't since he moved here 15 yrs ago and he has all sorts of clams corals and inverts in his tank. but thats what my concern was cause no one has told me what my phosphate should be at, cause i dont feel like taking my tank apart to scrub algea later.
 

Jonathan G.

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k nevermind i checked out that website and i checked my phosphates and their fine.... just wanted to take that added weight off of my chest.
 

Jonathan G.

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Location
Toledo, OH
k i have another question if you dont mind.... my pH is still around 7.9-8.0 so should i add a pH buffer to bring up my pH before adding live rock to cycle it out or should i just add the live rock and worry about the pH later? also i have a 75 gal tank, how much live rock would it take to cycle out my tank?
 
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